"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
08/08/2016 at 20:05 • Filed to: None
3
14|
"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
08/08/2016 at 20:05 • Filed to: None | 3
| 14 |
you should get a 55 gallon drum of lube. The fan is in and running*
I went with JHM motorsports electric fan conversion. the kit was 100% all rivets, wire connectors and such.
Step one: remove everything
have a beer, your gunna need it
jack the car up so you can turn the wheels back and forth
unscrew fender liners
scrape the shit out of your arm unscrewing nuts holding the bumper to the fender
remove fog light bezzles and undo 2 mile long nbotls holding the bumper to the bumper shock absorbers
pull on bumper, rip a screw thru the plastic and then undo the others
unplug fog lights and headlight washer fluidtube? I have a head light washer? how do I use that? I didn;t know that existed
get another beer
remove power steering fluid cooler
remove forward cooling fan
search unsuccessfully for coolant drain plug and then just disconnect the lower radiator hose and have a bucket ready cuz shes gunna piss everywhere
find out that the transmission cooling line runs thru the radiator so you gutta disconnect that shit too
pull the condenser
pull the radiator
unscrew fan
hold pulley while reverse tread undoing fucked up fan clutch
have a beer or two, your gunna need your strength for tomorrow
Day Two finish disassembly
loosen serpentine belt
unbolt fan pulley this fucker was tricky as 2 of the bolts are hidden behind the pulley and only accessible in certain rotation position
Step Two Install the Fan
pop rivet the new timing belt shroud into place
mount the fan with 2 plastic clips through the radiator and two scerws through the bottom of the fan housing and into the outer part of the new fan
wire that shit up
Step 3 Put all that shit back together
basically step step one in reverse
search for G12 coolant. find out noone carries that shit. Find out the wimps at Audi parts leave at 1pm and finally get G13 from Volkswagon.
you will have 1 bolt left over
Step 4 test out your new fan
nothing fucking nothing nothing at all happens
fuck you
hilly billy that shit
yes thats a light switch
Step 5 recover and through process of elimination see how many more parts you need to buy
there are 3 things that could be causing my issue. This also explains why I’ve never seen the front fan operate. It could be a coolant temp sensor in the lower radiator hose. It could be a wiring harness cuz apparently they don’t like the snow or it could be the temperature control switch.
I still got to work today. I noticed a HUGE difference, like Trump’s wall huge. There was definitely a substantial amount of drag on the engine, especially after getting to running temperature. I can feel a difference most leaving a green light, I can build revs much easier.
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 14:02 |
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Looks like recommendations for peppered angus on Audis and cooling in general are right. Not that I had any doubts, after some horror stories I heard about KusabiSensei’s
TrackDayBro
Audi.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 14:31 |
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I hard wired the horn on my Buick Electra 225 with a light switch. It just hung under the dashboard and my buddies would randomly honk it with the full 12 volts. Freaking loud, scare the crap out of people. Light switch FTW.
Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 15:29 |
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While I’m sorry for your suffering, these posts are excellent. Let the rage-to-success stories resume!
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
08/08/2016 at 15:41 |
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it was a huge disappointment when the fucker didn’t kick on but it it was an amazing feeling putting the bumper back on and being like hey this looks like a car again. There was also a great feeling of accomplishment looking back at all the work. My boss thinks i’m nuts from trying something like that. I figured it would have been $800 - $1000 for what I did and it only cost me $350 or so after fluids and beer and Wendy’s. (gutta pay the help) Next weekend we’ll be doing the rear drum brakes (drums, pads and the cylinder thingy) on his 2003 Camry
Dave the car guy , still here
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 15:43 |
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I’ve been there working on these beast. Here is a picture of what I called modified service position, just for your enjoyment. Glad you at least have it cooling. You can sort out it switching on later. Summit Racing has switches you can zip-tie to a radiator hose. BTW , next time you can use universal lifetime coolant instead of G12/G13 when in a crunch, any type thats compatible with GM Dexcool will work in a pinch.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> Dave the car guy , still here
08/08/2016 at 15:56 |
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yea i was getting nervous about the coolant. The woman at O’Reilly’s said I could use GM stuff but I was afraid of if the Audi would agree with her or not. what are you doing to it?
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Dave the car guy , still here
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 16:02 |
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That was picture from a bunch of years ago when doing timing belt, belts, water pump and thermostat.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
08/08/2016 at 17:17 |
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I’ve always wanted an air horn in my car for when someone does something exceptionally dumb and a regular horn just isn’t enough
bhtooefr
> Dave the car guy , still here
08/08/2016 at 20:07 |
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Personally, I wouldn’t play the Dexcool game.
G12 and compatible successors (G12+, G12++, G13) are often available at NAPA, and sometimes Advance has them too.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> bhtooefr
08/08/2016 at 20:34 |
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i dont know about G13 but Advanced, OReilly and Walmart did not have G12
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bhtooefr
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/08/2016 at 20:54 |
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The trick with Advance is that the G12 they carry is Pentofrost SF (and it says G12 only in small print - like, I think on the back of the bottle), and the G12++ they carry is Pentofrost ++.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> bhtooefr
08/08/2016 at 20:58 |
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yea i hag googled G12 and saw Pentafrost. I’m pretty sure neither place had them. I know ORielly didn’t. I called Advanced and they said no
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Dave the car guy , still here
> bhtooefr
08/08/2016 at 21:12 |
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I’ve had Audi/VW products for nearly 20 years and have mixed used them both together often with no ill effects. Early Dexcool (nickname DexKill) had more issues when there was an air leak in the system. Later versions has been much improved without the clotting issues or corrosion. Dex and G12 are both they’re nitrite-free, amine-free, phosphate-free, silicate-free, borate-free OAT coolants. The primary difference is different organic acids for corrosion inhibitors but they mix fine. BASF makes a Dexcool for GM Europe called G34 and G12 for there called G30 which are nearly the same chemical compounding but are made for specific brands wishes. If you look at the following two PDF files Texaco recommends a Dexcool for usage in G12 systems and Pentosin who manufactures the G12 based coolant Pentofrost SF they recommend for Dexcool systems. Pentosin Pentofrost E is the new G13 which also mixes with G11 and G12 types. Its weird that Pentosin makes some coolants in multiple colors like the NF in blue or SF in pink that meet the same standard for Porsche and other cars but would make a system look contaminated if you used a different color for top off.
https://www.taligentx.com/passat/info/fl…
http://www.pentosin.net/pressreleases/…
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bhtooefr
> Dave the car guy , still here
08/08/2016 at 21:30 |
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I would happily use G12 or its successors in a Dexcool system (in fact, I’d flush a Dexcool system and switch to G12), but not the other way around, really. They’re similar, but Dexcool just isn’t as stable.
Also, G12++ and G13 are compatible with both G11 and G12, but G11 and G12 are not compatible with each other, which means you have to be very careful when mixing VW coolants. (The tl;dr is, if the car came with G11, just flush and run G12++/G13 (in case someone ever mixed G12). If the car came with G12, use G12++/G13.)